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For Further Reading |
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Cushman-Roisan, B. 1994. Introduction to Geophysical Fluid Dynamics. Prentice Hall: NJ. 320pp.
Reference for: Chapter 10, Wave Theory |
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Holman, R.A., 2001. Waves on beaches. In: Encyclopedia of Ocean Sciences. J.H. Steele, S.A. Thorpe, and K.K. Turekian, eds. Academic Press: CA. pp 3194-3201.
Reference for: Chapter 10, Wave Interactions with the Seafloor
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Warshaw, Matt. 2003. The Encyclopedia of Surfing. Harcourt: FL
Reference for: Chapter 10, Extreme Waves
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Wright, B., 1985. Surfing Hawaii. Mountain and Sea Publishing: CA
Reference for: Chapter 10, The Development of Wave Theory |
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*Butt, Tony, Paul Russell, and Rick Grigg. 2004. Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing, 2nd Edition. University of Hawaii Press; HI
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*Colburn, Bolton, Ben Finneu, Tyler Stallings, C. R. Stecyk, Deanne Stillman, and Tom Wolfe. 2002. Surf Culture: The Art History of Surfing. Gingko Press: CA |
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*Cool, Nathan Todd. 2003. The WetSand WaveCast Guide to Surf Forecasting. iUniverse: NY |
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*Pedlosky. Joseph. 2003. Waves in the Ocean and Atmosphere. Springer: NY
This advanced book presents the mathematics of waves and wave theory.
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*Biggest Wednesday: Condition Black. 2001. Volatile Visions. (DVD)
This 45-minute documentary describes the epic conditions in Hawaii on January 28, 1999.
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*Condition Black. 2004. Nature (DVD)
Same day, different perspective, this one is more scientific
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*Big Wednesday. 1978. Warner Brothers. (DVD)
Starring Jan-Michael Vincent, William Katt, and Gary Busey, this “celebration” of surfing is corny as all get out but a classic that should not be missed.
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Encyclopedia of Ocean Sciences. J.H. Steele, S.A. Thorpe, and K.K. Turekian, eds. Academic Press: CA. pp 3187-3191.
-McCormick and D.R.B. Kraemer. 2001. Wave energy.Reference for: Chapter 10, What is a Wave? Analyzing Natural Waves.
-Melville, W.K.. 2001. Surface, gravity and capillary waves.
Reference for: Chapter 10, Wave Theory
Thorpe, S.A. 2001. Wave generation by wind.
Reference for: Chapter 10, Wave Generation by Winds |
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Open University. 1989. Waves, Tides and Shallow-water Processes, 2nd Edition. Butterworth-Heinemann: U
Reference for: Chapter 10, Figures 10-9, 10-19, Wave Theory, Analyzing Natural Waves |
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Pond, S. and G. L. Pickard. 2003. Introductory Dynamical Oceanography. Butterworth-Heiemann. Elsevier: Oxford, UK, 329pp.
Reference for: Chapter 10, Wave Theory
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*Riding Giants. 2005. Sony Pictures. (DVD)
The history of big wave surfing. Epic!
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*Step Into Liquid. 2003. Artisan. (DVD)
A terrific survey of the culture of surfing from Lake Michigan to Hawaii.
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*The Endless Summer. 1964. Image Entertainment. (DVD)
Just thinking about this movie makes us want to ditch it all and surf the rest of our lives!
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Waves, Tides, and Currents: Shaping the Coastal Environment. 2004. Educational Video Network (DVD) |
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Bascom, Willard. 1980. Waves and Beaches. Anchor Press: NY
Reference for: Chapter 10, Figure 10-13, Wave Generation by Winds, Analyzing Natural Waves |
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*Barber, N. F. 1969. Water Waves. Wykeham Publications: UK |
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*Denny, Mark W. 1988. Biology and the Mechanics of the Wave-Swept Environment. Princeton University Press: NJ. |
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*The Endless Voyage: Surf’s Up and Look Out Below (Episodes 13 and 14). 2002 (VHS). Intelecom.
Professor Sean appeared in several of the episodes of this series and helped develop learning activities to support it. While some episodes are better than others, The Endless Voyage provides one of the most complete and up-to-date series on oceanography available.
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*Making the Call: Big Waves of the North Pacific. 2003. (DVD)
This video from Surfline features excellent graphics and explanations for the bathymetric features and wave properties that generate big waves. |
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*Shark Park: The Heaviest Wave in California. 2006. Greg Huglin. (DVD)
Check out the photo on the opening page of this chapter. It’s heavy, man. This documentary describes the search for this new extreme wave surf spot. |
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*Smith, F. G. Walton. 1973. The Seas in Motion. Thomas Crowell: NY.
Reference for: Chapter 10, Figure 10-5 |
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The Endless Voyage: Surf’s Up and Look Out Below (Episodes 13 and 14). 2002 (VHS and DVD). Intelecom.
Professor Sean appeared in several of the episodes of this series and helped develop learning activities to support it. While some episodes are better than others, The Endless Voyage provides one of the most complete and up-to-date series on oceanography available
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Looking to do some 
by Chamberlin and Dickey